One of the biggest swells we’ve seen in Orange County hit this week thanks to Hurricane Marie. While the wedge was still pretty epic I think that the really cool stuff came from the normally mild newport peninsula. On average, the waves here don’t get much bigger than 4 feet and we rarely see barreling shapes. A good chunk of these photo’s where taken from the 42nd street beach where the average wave was doing 12 feet and getting as big as 15. It was spectacular. I heard that the 17th street area was getting 20+ feet but I didn’t get a chance to check it out.
I wouldn’t want to be a lifeguard on a day like this. A big round of applause to these guys for braving the ridiculous surf and the unbelievable currents that go along with it.